Van Conversion
Welcome to my overview of my van conversion process. Here you can find all information about my planing and building process of my van. I try to leave the descriptions very superficial, otherwise the whole thing would go beyond the scope. This is just intended to give you an insight into what it means to build a tiny house on wheels from planning to implementation (on a high level). If you want deeper details or need help with any topics, please feel free to contact me. I’ll see what I can do. Have fun reading through. Maybe there are people who feel inspired and would like to build their own van.
Table of Contents
About
Vehicle:
- Fiat Ducato 130 Multijet
- 2.3L Diesel
- 130PS
- 2019
- 75000km
- Added:
- 2 swifel seats
- 2 windows
- roof rack with terrace
- ladder for roof rack
Water system:
- 180L Freshwatertank
- 120L Greywatertank
- 9L AC/Airheater Boiler
- DC Diaphragm pump 11,3L/min
- In/Outdoorshower
- Sink with faucet
- Micro- & Nanofilter for drinking water
Electrical system:
- DC
- 4x175W Solarpanels
- DC Switch for On/Off solar system
- MPPT controller 100/20
- DIY 510Ah 12V LiFePo4 battery
- DC Main Switch for battery
- Triple Batterycharger 50A
- 12V Distributor for main system
- 12V Distributor for load system
- AC
- 3kW Inverter
- 16A Grid priority switch for shore operation
- 16A Outdoor socket
- Fusebox with 16A RCD/Fuse
Heating system:
- 2kW 12V diesel heater
Safety:
- Mechanical locks for the side- and backdoor
- Tension trap for the front doors
Interior:
- Kitchen
- 3.8m kitchenside
- Watersink
- Induction cooking field
- 60L 12V fridge with ice drawer
- Foldable kitchen extension
- 4 Drawers and 3 cabinets with locking system
- 3 Wall cabinets
- Water system
- Control panel for Inverter, Heater, Watersystem and LED
- Sitting area
- Space for 3 people
- 2 swifel seats
- 1 bench
- Folding and sliding table
- Underneath storage
- 2 Wall cabinets
- Network
- 5G Omnidirectional antenna
- 5G Router
- Shower/Toilet/Storage
- 3 in 1 (Shower, dry composting toilet, clothes storage) Furniture for space efficiency
- 2 cabinets with locking system
- Clothes rail for jackets
- Bedroom
- Foldable bed 1.9×1.4m
- Electrical system
- 4 cabinets with locking system
Planning
Step 1: Defining my purpose
The first step was defining the purpose of building a van. I asked myself the following questions:
- How do I want to use the van? (e.g., weekend getaways, full-time living, or occasional travel)
- For how many people should the van accommodate? Should it accommodate many people, or should it have space for only a few individuals?
- What essentials do I need for my purpose? Should it only be a place to sleep, or should it have the standards of a normal house?
- What is my budget? Do I have the funds for a low-budget conversion, or can I invest more?
I decided to live full-time in a van. It should be a place for at least two people with enough storage and the comfort of a tiny apartment. That means it should be a van where I can stand inside and have enough space for the essentials to live. It should be under 3.5t (car license) and not too old (the foundation should be in good shape). There should also be enough resources to live most days off-grid (energy, water, food). Luckily, I had enough savings from nine years of working, so I had some flexibility in the budget. It should strike a balance between essential needs and maintaining aspects of my normal life. Additionally, the entire project should have a useful life of at least 8 years. That was my goal.
Step 2: Research and information gathering:
After defining my purpose for living in a van, I invested time in gathering inspiration and knowledge about van conversions. I took advantage of the worldwide web, where the van conversion section has expanded significantly in recent years. Many people have documented their conversion processes, covering topics such as cars, insulation, wood materials, furniture building, electrical systems, water systems, heating systems, safety, windows, freezer, shower, toilet, tools, air conditioning, weight distribution in a van, and motorhome registration. Fortunately, with a background in mechatronics, some aspects were not entirely new, but there was still much to learn.
Step 3: Choosing the Right Vehicle
With my purpose for the van clear and background information on van construction, the next step was searching for a suitable vehicle. After researching models from different companies (Mercedes, VW, Renault, Iveco, Peugeot, Ford, Fiat) and comparing them based on size, cost, and maintenance, I concluded that models from Peugeot, Ford, and Fiat (with the same van body) best fit my requirements. The Fiat Ducato L3H2, in particular, met my needs with its affordability, nearly square cabin, good length-to-room ratio, and galvanized construction. After a six-month search during the pandemic, I found an affordable one from 2019 with 75,000km on it. Although it had some body damage, it was not a problem to fix. I purchased the vehicle for €17,000 in April 2022.
Step 4: Layout Planning
The next step was planning the layout. After measuring the vehicle’s layout, I created a 3D model of the cabin using CAD software. I then made a 2D sketch with rough layout details based on my requirements. After adjusting and visualizing the layout by placing paperboard, chairs, and tables inside the van, I taped the layout to the van floor.
Step 5: Hands-on experience
After laying out the design, it was time to test the rough layout practically. Testing everything before building not only saves money and time but also ensures practicality. I made final adjustments after testing and measured the layout, which I taped to the floor. I went back to the CAD to adapt my layout accordingly.
Step 6: Searching for Components and making plans (electrical, heating, plumbing):
The next step involved making plans for the electrical, water, and heating systems. I created rough system layouts to understand the parts needed and the locations of wiring and hoses. Referring to my requirements list, I calculated the dimensions of components needed and searched for suitable parts online. This process took time due to the vast number of components available. Once I had all the components, I adjusted the plans accordingly.
Step 7: CAD development
I transferred the plans to CAD, incorporating every component into the 3D model. This challenging phase involved finding suitable locations for each component in the van, considering the furniture layout. After numerous trial-and-error iterations, I finally found a workable solution. I then began building the furniture, such as drawers and wardrobes, around the components and finalized my CAD plans.
Step 8: Finalizing plans
After finalizing my CAD plans, I calculated the amount of wood material and components (screws, hinges, slides, etc.) needed. I created a rough cutout plan for the wood parts and calculated the lengths of wires for the electrical system and hoses for the water system. These steps preemptively saved me from potential issues, saving time, money, and emotional stress.
Step 9: Ordering the Parts
With everything pre-calculated, I ordered the necessary parts specifically. With plans finalized and parts ordered, the van was ready for the conversion process.
Building
Step 1: Prepairing the van
The van serves as the foundation of the living space. I ensured that every aspect of the vehicle was well-maintained: brakes, oil, rust inside and outside, lights. Consulting my car maintenance table, I determined the necessary tasks. At this stage, it proved easy to repair and replace parts. I applied undercoating and cavity sealing to protect my van from rust and make it last longer. Many vehicles don’t have this protection underneath, so they’re more likely to rust quickly.
Step 2: Mount the windows
I started with the windows: After fixing my car, I focused on the windows and possibly the ventilation system, as they are integral parts of the vehicle. I measured the windows and marked the dimensions on the van. To prevent metal pieces from falling into unreachable parts of the van while cutting, I covered the surface with tape and placed a plastic bag inside to catch the cuttings. It’s essential to measure twice at the beginning to avoid surprises.
I used a jigsaw with metal saw blades to cut the metal out of the frame that I had taped. Then, I covered the cuttings with some protection. Most windows require some underneath construction to secure them to the frame. I built mine using construction wood and glued them to the wall. To fix the frame while gluing, I used the window and the frame to clamp it together. After gluing the frame, I sealed the window with some sealing and finally put it in place.
Step 3: Building the roof rack
I installed solar panels, a 5G antenna, and a roof terrace on my van. I planned to spend many days off-grid, so I needed energy in the form of solar panels. To ensure a reliable internet connection while on the road, I installed a 5G antenna for the van. I built a roof rack to mount the solar panels, a 5G antenna for a good internet connection, and a small roof terrace for relaxation purposes.
To construct the roof rack frame, I used Type B aluminum profiles, connecting them with angles and hammerhead screws. To secure the frame to the mounting points on the van, I built a device using a large aluminum angle. For the roof terrace, I used WPC planks (a mix of wood and plastic for durability) and fastened them with wood screws to the aluminum frame. Easy access to the roof was facilitated by a ladder installed at the right back door.
Step 4: Assembling the substructure for the furniture and isolating the van
I constructed the framework to secure the furniture. The van is now prepared for interior work. With the CAD plans, I have a clear understanding of the optimal furniture placement. There are various methods available for attaching the furniture to the van. I drilled holes in specific sections of the walls, applied protective paint, and subsequently inserted rivet nuts into the holes. This ensures cleanliness and prevents rust, unlike when using regular screws. Following that, I utilized construction wood and secured it to the rivet nuts with bolts. Now, there are multiple points where you can fasten your furniture securely.
Isolation: There are a few materials I can consider for this, so I’ll choose what fits my preferences. I’ve choosed for Armaflex and used tape to secure the cut pieces together. I need to be aware of certain points around the doors, as they might not be completely watertight. Points like the handles or protective elements should be left open to allow water drainage. I’ll start with the bottom and then make my way through the van. I’ve left openings in the areas where I plan to route my wiring.
Step 5: Prepairing the electrical wiring
I prepared the electrical wiring for my car conversion by isolating the vehicle first. Instead of waiting until later in the build process, I recommend doing this at the beginning to avoid difficulties in stripping the wires through the car after furniture installation. In my case, I did this after isolating the car, but in the future, I would do it before isolation for easier access and to complete the insulation directly.
To safeguard the wires against vibrations while driving, I used conduits. With my electrical plan and CAD data, I knew the precise locations and lengths of each wire. After preparing and cutting the wires to the correct length (always allowing for extra cable), I taped them together and pulled them through the conduits. Once all the wiring was completed, I started pulling the conduits through the van. This process required time, steady hands, and patience.
Step 6: Starting with the kitchenside
Starting the kitchen construction, I began with the kitchen side. To cover the armaflex, I used self-adhesive felt. On the backside of the kitchen, I used an HPL plate to provide a solid foundation, potentially for fixing items to it. I left the button side as it was, relying on the long kitchen side to conceal everything.
Additionally, I initiated the creation of the first vertical wood panel for the freezer. Using a circular saw and jigsaw, I cut it out. To mount the wood panel, I employed aluminum L-profile, cutting it into small pieces. Subsequently, I secured the wood panel to the floor panel using aluminum angles. I repeated this process for all the other vertical wood panels in the kitchen. To achieve consistent spacing between each panel, I cut some construction wood. Aligning the panels in a straight line posed a challenge due to the uneven floor. Consequently, I had to adjust each panel or use metal pieces to maintain a uniform height.
To stabilize each panel, I proceeded to build the drawers and cupboards. The next step involved installing the water tank and heating system before completing the back part of the kitchen. The freshwater tank, positioned in the right corner over the wheel arch, was secured with a tension strap and a front panel to prevent movement. To create an outlet for the water tank, I drilled holes through the floor. In front of the water tank, I mounted the heating system, cutting a rectangular hole through the floor with a jigsaw for this purpose.
I used Queenply as construction material. It saved me a considerable amount of weight and time, especially since I was constructing a van under 3.5 tonnes, leading to eventual fuel cost savings. While it may not be the most economical choice upfront (expensive), considering it as a long-term investment made it definitely worth the money.
Step 7: Installing the water system
After constructing the raw structure of the kitchen, I began working on the plumbing for the water system. I utilized 10mm water hoses and pipe clamps to ensure the water system was watertight. To secure the hoses on the wood panel, I used clamps from the electrical installation, providing a well-organized structure for the hose plumbing.
I started by placing the pump, boiler, outdoor shower, water inlet for the freshwater tank, hot water regulator, and a water filter. In the next step, I connected the parts with cold (blue) and hot (red) water hoses. Some components, such as the indoor shower or water tap, weren’t installed at this point, so I left a few meters of hose reserve for these parts. I centralized all junctions of the water system in one place for easy access and maintenance in case of water leaks.
The water system is straightforward. Water flows through the water inlet hose to the first filter, then into the water tank. The pump draws water from the tank and distributes it to all water outlets. Additionally, a second filter is installed before the water tap to ensure drinkable water. To obtain warm water, a hose is connected to the boiler, which can be heated by AC power or the heating system. After the water is heated by the boiler, it returns to the hot water regulator. From there, the water flows through the distributor to all water outlets. That’s the entire system.
Step 8: Installing the heating system
The next step in the process was installing the heating system. This system comprised a diesel heater, Y-Valve with a toggleable bowden cable, and two outlets. Initially, I installed the diesel heater, which included components like a pipe for fresh air, an exhaust, a hose for fuel, and a pump to draw diesel from the van’s fuel tank. After setting up the diesel heater components, I turned my attention to the intake air of the system. To minimize annoying noises from the intake air, I placed a silencer in front of the system.
Once the silencer was in place, I proceeded with the piping for the heating system. I started with the pipe from the heater to the valve, then continued with one outlet of the valve to the first outlet of the system. The other outlet of the valve was connected to the water boiler and then back to the second outlet of the system. This system is quite efficient because whenever the heater is on, there is always a supply of warm water. This helps conserve electrical energy, especially in colder times.
Step 9: Installing the electrical system of the kitchen
After installing the heating and water system, I moved on to the electrical components of the kitchen. The AC part includes the induction cooking field, the water boiler, and some sockets. I wired them all in parallel to one main cable to save on weight. Specifically for the boiler, I installed a switch to turn it off when hot water is not needed, helping to conserve energy.
The DC part consists of the water tank indicators for fresh and greywater, diesel heater, fridge, water pump, switch signal for the inverter, and an LED strip for the underneath light. The power supply and signals for the DC in the kitchen are distributed to various cables for switches, sensors, and actuators. To streamline control and monitoring, I created a main board for all controls and indicators. On the mainboard, I mounted the LED controller, the switch for the inverter, the switch for the water pump, indicators for fresh and greywater, the heating system control, and the regulator for the heater distributor.
Step 10: Building the countertop and doors
Moving on to the countertop construction, I started after finishing the framework for the electrical and water systems in the kitchen. To achieve this, I began by cutting two holes in the countertop – one for the sink and one for the induction cooking field. I proceeded to install the faucet for the sink, connecting the water hoses to it. Additionally, I integrated the induction cooking field into the AC system.
To prevent damage between the countertop and the walls, I placed rubber bands at the edges. This measure aimed to protect the two panels from potential damage, especially during transit. With these steps completed, the countertop was now finished.
On the countertop, I constructed fixtures for installing the sockets and light switches. I utilized a hidden locking system that can be mounted to the wall. In case of any issues, it’s easy to pull the entire construction away without removing any screws. Two sockets and two switches are mounted on the panel. There’s one switch for the main floor and another for the wall cabinet, providing better lighting when cooking.
In addition, I built the missing shelves and the doors in the rear area. The doors were quickly mounted by installing two hinges and a locking system for easy opening and closing. The selves took a bit longer, because it was adaption work as it’s best.
The kitchenside was finished.
(Sry for the low quality pictures, these are the only one I took)
Step 11: Covering the window
The kitchen was constructed, and I proceeded to work on the other side of the van. Initially, I crafted a construction wall for the window on the left side. The upper part was designed to cover the window framework. I created a cutout for the window and then built a framework to fill the space between the panel and the window. This proved to be a bit challenging, given that the upper part of the van body is curved inwards. In the next step, I cut out the lower panel of the wall cover and installed it. This panel serves the purpose of mounting the table and electrical ports. Both panels were securely fixed to the body of the van using rivet nuts.
Step 12: Sticking the felt
Starting with the left window side panel, I proceeded to affix self-adhesive felt onto the corresponding wall of the van. As with the opposite side, I applied the felt specifically to the viewing areas.
Step 13: Mounting the ceiling
Moving on, the subsequent task was the construction of the ceiling. This involved cutting out thin panels, adjusting them to fit the van’s framework, and securing them to the previously prepared construction wood using screws. Following this, I created openings for the LED lights, wired the cables, and connected the LEDs.
Step 14: Building the first vertical panel for the bed
Embarking on the construction of the vertical panels, I started from the backside of the van. The initial panel involved cutting a rough shape, followed by meticulous work to outline the curvy forms of the walls. To achieve precision, I used a pencil to mark on the panel and a spacer to bridge the gap between the wall and the panel. This adjustment work, taking considerable time, included adding rubber bands at the edges for flexibility during travel. The first panel near the back door featured a door for accessing electrical parts, along with added sockets and a main floor light switch.
Step 15: Building the second panel and mouting the AC parts
With the completion of the first panel, I progressed to the second panel, serving as the support structure for the bed and a crucial part of the electrical system. Shaping the panel, I mounted the inverter, main priority circuit, and fuse box, undertaking the necessary wirings. Once devices were in place, I secured the panel in the van and connected all AC cables to the fuse box. To link the AC system with the regular power grid, I installed an outdoor plug by cutting a hole in the sidewall and wiring it to the fuse box.
Step 16: Building the DC main board
Moving on to the next phase, I focused on the DC part of the electrical system. After cutting out panels, I mounted essential components, including the main fuse, main switch, smart shunt, distributor, MPPT controller, and the battery charger. Wiring all the parts together, I fixed the panel in the van. Following this, I connected all DC wires (loads) from the van to the distributor of the loads, wired the inverter, the battery charger, and the main ground (minus pole to the vehicle body).
Step 17: Building the bed framework
After completing the electrical work, I proceeded to construct the bedframe. I started by cutting out the second construction panel adjacent to the main electrical panel and securely mounted it. Following this, I cut and installed the horizontal main panel for the bed, attaching it to the vertical panels I had constructed earlier. To maximize storage space, I added a second layer underneath the bed.
Moving on to the bedroom area, I crafted additional panels on top of the bedframe. These panels house two lights with USB chargers, an AC socket, and a light switch for the main floor. Beginning with cutting out the panel, I then created openings for the sockets and lights, mounted the components, and connected the wiring. Finally, I secured the panel in place using rivet nuts on the wall.
Step 18: Building the vertical panels for the all-in-one-solution
Commencing the construction of the shower/storage/toilet all-in-one solution, I began after completing the bed. Following the exact steps I took with the first vertical panel (step 15), this process took some time. To ensure that all panels were parallel to each other, I cut wood pieces of the same length and pre-mounted them on the bottom and top (as spacers) between each panel. The challenging part was aligning all three panels in a vertical line. Using my marked line on the floor as a guide, I attempted to move all panels into a vertical line (viewed from the back door). Employing an aluminum profile, I checked if all three panels were in alignment, progressing from the bottom to the top. After a significant amount of adjustment, I secured the panels to the construction wood on the side walls and the floor.
Step 19: Building the toilet space
Starting to build the toilet, I got a dry separation toilet set with parts for separating dry and liquid waste. I made a box around these parts to keep everything together.
After finishing the toilet, I moved on to creating storage for it. The toilet is placed next to the bed frame and is designed to slide into the shower room only when in use, giving more space when not needed. To prevent water from getting into the toilet storage during showers, I built a waterproof frame around the toilet box. This frame also served as a guide for cutting the first two long panels. By overlaying the panels and using the frame as a guide, I made sure they fit well and were properly aligned when attached.
For the panel next to the sitting area, I added an extension frame to provide more legroom, especially when using the toilet. This extension was designed with the same angle as the bench backrest, making the construction of the seat much simpler.
Step 20: Creating the sitting area
The toilet storage was complete, and I had to wait for some parts before continuing with the shower/storage area. Meanwhile, I started working on the sitting area. I began by constructing the underflooring, creating a useful space for shoes and groceries. The covers of the underflooring construction can easily be moved away, and it’s important to have the same seat level when swiveling around the driver’s seat. After completing the floor construction, I moved on to building the seat bench. I added a pull-out drawer under the seat for additional storage.
The next step involved setting up the electrical supply for the sitting area. I used a hidden locking system similar to what I did on the kitchen side, making it easy to remove the entire construction if needed. On the panel, I mounted two sockets for AC and two sockets for DC. After finishing the electrical supply setup, I built the folding table. I made it foldable to maximize space while sitting at the table, and it also facilitates getting out of the driver’s seat. The table is additionally movable horizontally, making it adjustable for everyone’s needs and providing access to the storage underneath.
Step 21: Building the front- and backpanel for the all-in-one-solution
In the interim, the parts for the shower/storage arrived, and I returned to continue with this project. I began by working on the back wall of the shower. Initially, I cut out the dimensions for the shower fixture, then installed the fixture, placed the panel inside the shower, and connected the water hoses to the fixture. Subsequently, I tested the system for leaks. After completing the plumbing, I secured the wall panel to the two side panels.
The subsequent step involved constructing the front panel of the shower/storage. The steps were nearly identical to those for the side panels of the shower/storage. It required a significant amount of adaptation work to fit the panel between the two outer sidewalls, particularly at the bottom and the top of the panel where everything was bent. Now, it was time to cut out the doors for the two wardrobes. In this step, precise measurement and marking of the lines were crucial because the cutout rest is used for the doors. In the next step, I mounted the front panel with its cutouts to the shower/storage.
Step 22: Building the doors/wardrobe for the all-in-one-solution
Upon completing the front panel, I commenced the construction of the doors for the shower. The small door for the jacket storage was quickly mounted by installing two hinges and a locking system for easy opening and closing. The door for the shower/toilet had a different design, as it featured a wardrobe inside. Initially, I cut out the door for the wardrobe, similar to the step before. Subsequently, I constructed a rectangular housing around the cutout and mounted the wardrobe door to the main door panel, serving as storage for clothes.
In a 90-degree angle to the main door, I installed a second door, specifically designed for showering or using the toilet. For a better understanding, please refer to the pictures, as this design is not my own invention; it already exists in various forms.
Step 23: Finishing the ceiling
The subsequent task was to construct the ceiling. My plan involved creating an aesthetically pleasing wooden ceiling with a black background color. To achieve this, I first painted the previously mounted wood panels on the ceiling black. Next, I cut raw sheets from homegrown spruce and had them planed to a standard size by a friend. The real work began at this point.
I started by measuring the first sheet, focusing on the ceiling lights, and cutting it to the appropriate length. After predrilling the wood, I screwed the first line of sheets to construction wood that I had mounted at the beginning of the conversion. For the subsequent lines, I utilized a spacer between the sheets to ensure a consistent distance. I progressed outward until the entire ceiling was covered. Upon completing the ceiling, I unscrewed everything, sanded it, and applied wood stain to the sheets. Subsequently, I sanded it again and applied a second layer of wood stain. Once everything was dry, I re-mounted the sheets.
Step 24: Building the upper cabinets
The ceiling was completed, and I proceeded with the upper cabinets above the sitting area. Initially, I crafted the bottom horizontal panel, shaping it, creating holes for lights, and milling grooves for cables. Subsequently, I constructed the upper panel by cutting a small rectangular piece and mounting it to the ceiling. The final part of the framework involved cutting shapes for the vertical space divider and the outside wall panel of the cabinet, adjusting them to the bends of the wall. I then assembled all panels and securely affixed the finished upper cabinet to the construction wood on the walls.
After completing the framework of the upper cabinet, I connected the lights to the switch and then to the DC power supply. To conceal the cables of the power supply and the switch, I built a small distribution box. The last step was constructing the framework for the router. I measured the router’s dimensions and created a simple accessible box around it, mounting it to the ceiling. I then wired the antenna cables from the roof to the router. For the power supply, I added a DC/DC converter between the DC power supply and the router to avoid voltage fluctuations, which the router doesn’t tolerate well. I mounted the DC/DC converter on the side panel and enclosed it in a small box to cover the wirings. Additionally, I included a switch on the box to turn the router on/off. Finally, I sewed the front doors to size and attached the locks.
Starting the assembly of the upper cabinet for the kitchen after completing the one in the sitting area, I followed similar steps, excluding the router and the switch. Ensuring parallelism between the kitchen unit and the upper cupboard was a key point. Additionally, I added two AC sockets in the upper cabinet for the kitchen.
Step 25: Adding the doors
The next step in the process was to build the doors underneath the bed, the foldable bed and the toilet door. First, I cut out the rough frames for the doors underneath the bed, adapting them to the framework of the sub-construction of the bed, which had a curved shape. Afterward, I mounted the locking system and secured the hinges to the doors and the framework. The toilet door was nearly the same process. The foldable bed is attached to the bedframework with a bar hinge. The trick is to bring the bed plate to the exact height of the counter top. This had to be measured when constructing the bed’s substructure. Otherwise the bed plate will sit at an angle on the worktop. When folded, the bed plate can be closed with two locking systems, each on the left and right.
Step 26: Building the table extension for the kitchen
The rough construction was already completed, and now it was time for fine-tuning. Initially, I added a foldable table extension on the kitchen side, particularly useful when the bed is unfolded, creating additional space.
Step 27: Creating a DIY battery
Then, I embarked on creating my substantial DIY battery. Initially, I had planned for a 230Ah 12V battery. However, during the conversion, I opted to upgrade for increased storage capacity, allowing me to bridge a couple of days without sunlight. I ordered another set of 4x280Ah 3.2V cells, resulting in a total of 510Ah 12V battery bank for my van, which should be sufficient.
To safely transport the battery cells, I constructed a framework using aluminum profiles and threaded bars (to clamp the cells), mounted on a screen-printing plate. The cells are monitored by a Battery Management System (BMS) and can be optionally balanced by an active balancer (simply plug in when necessary). All BMS settings can be adjusted via a dedicated app. (This is not intended to be a guide; please ensure to gather relevant information accordingly.)
Step 28: Replacing and painting some body parts at the van
The subsequent task involved painting my front wing, side, and back doors. When I acquired the van, it had some damage to the front wing and the side door. I had to replace the front wing and straighten out the side door. Additionally, there were small holes in the side doors due to the previous owner having an additional lock from the outside and mounting some metal angles there (which I didn’t want). Fortunately, I had a connection to a professional painter who assisted me with the welding, fixing the side door, and painting the van. It took me a long time to secure an appointment; otherwise, I would have completed this step at the beginning of the project. Although there were still some minor scratches on the body of the van, that’s perfectly acceptable, considering there will likely be more when traveling and living in a van.
Step 29: Finishing the doors
After addressing the door issues, I proceeded to insulate them. I covered the insulation with wood panels and applied some self-adhesive felt, which I glued to plastic cardboard that was already in the van. Particularly for the window at the side door, I constructed a frame with panels around it, requiring meticulous adaptation work that took a considerable amount of time.
Step 30: Laying the floor
Moving on, I began laying the floor using click vinyl. I started at the bedside and worked my way to the kitchen side. The click vinyl is not glued or attached; it sits loosely on the floor.
Step 31: Installing the grey water tank
In another step, I installed the grey water tank, which is mounted under the car. I attached rivet nuts to the framework of the van and secured the water tank with steel strips to the rivet nuts. I then connected the water tank indicator, the water hoses from the sink and the shower, and the water hose from the outlet valve to the grey water tank. To prevent the grey water smell from entering the living area, I carefully curved the water hoses to create a siphon effect. Finally, I sealed all hose holes with dense mass.
Step 32: Starting a pre-tour
With the doors and floor completed, I conducted a pre-tour to identify missing elements and potential issues. Subsequently, I returned to work and made additional additions. Greetings Stefan. The noodles schnifiser art were very tasty 😀
Step 33: Adding curtains and hooks
I installed a curtain in the driver’s room, providing protection against colder or warmer days and offering privacy when parked. I also added a few holders for jackets and towels and cleaning rags
Step 34: Adding edge protection
To safeguard the wood panels from damage, I added aluminum profiles at the corners and all edges prone to potential impact. This precaution proved worthwhile, considering the number of edges and corners I had inadvertently broken during the construction process.
Step 35: Adding rain water protection and a windshield
Addressing the issue of rainwater entering when opening the door, I attached a small roof to the aluminum profiles on the roof. After testing it, I experienced no problems with vibration noises while driving.
To enhance fuel efficiency and reduce noise, I added a windshield in front of the roof rack. I mounted it to the roof rack and applied edge protection to prevent scratches from vibrations.
Step 36: Sealing the furniture and finishing the shower
The final step involved sealing the edges of the furniture and cleaning the surfaces. Fortunately, I received help from the entire family. For the edges, I applied a special clear varnish to maintain the wooden appearance and protect it from dirt. The process took a considerable amount of time. Initially, we had to remove everything from the van, then sand, paint, sand again, and paint once more. Finally, we placed everything back into the van. After completing the painting, I positioned the shower tray correctly and sealed the shower corners with silicone. That’s it.
The result
The building costs
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Thank you!
This project would not exist with the help of many people. I would like to thank Michelle, Diddi, Kai, Niklas, Hensi, my sister and my mother for their numerous support. A very special thank you to my father, who actively supported me throughout the entire period (from planning to creation). Without you the project would not have become what it is.
Thank you!
Enjoying
After 1.5 years of learning, planning, practicing, and creating, this project surpassed everything I had done before. It was a long journey with many highs and lows. I could have never imagined that something like this was even possible. I truly appreciate having had the opportunities – be it the workshop, the tools, or ultimately the money – to get such a project off the ground. It’s always a pleasure to walk into this amazing van and see the beauty of handmade work. Now, the time has come, and I am enjoying this beautiful home on my journey. Hopefully, I’ll experience lots of great stories with it.